by Preconceived Noceans
Yesterday I got to film (and surf) an AM session with Rick DeJianne from Gallery Surfboards. Trying to finish off his section of the Foam to Foam series I am working on, showing the art, culture, and process of shaping boards. I got to meet a few of the guys that surf his boards and finally get them in action. And let me just say…I am hoping to get one made by Rick after seeing them perform.
Hurricane Leslie is doing some amazing things for us East Coasters. The storm is moving really slowly and just hovering out in the mid Atlantic which has been bringing us waves all week and it looks like into next week. I will be back down Sunday am for Surfer’s Healing and hope to get in the water with my camera if the conditions are looking good (aka not too big for me to sit on the inside and have waves explode on me).
Will have some shots up next week of some more hurricane waves and Surfer’s Healing!