Foam to Foam? Chapter One

by Preconceived Noceans

I am happy to introduce another project by Preconceived Noceans (separate probably from the actual film). As of now I am calling the mini-project Foam to Foam (name could change), a short series about the art, process, and culture of shaping boards. I am the least fan of surfboards that are shot out of machines by the hundreds, which lack complete soul. A board is an extension of the body, much like your hands and feet, and a surfer really needs something created with passion and tailored to their style/waves.

The first chapter of the short series is still in the works, but it features NJ shaper Rick DeJianne of Gallery Surfboards and his unique and creative style of shaping boards. He takes inspiration from popular boards road by pros and creates a new shape to better suit our waves and surfers here on the east coast. He also is an incredible artist and uses paint and mixed medias to create a one of a kind board that really looks like it should be up in a Gallery (maybe hints the name of his shapes, Gallery Surfboards). But Rick really hit the nail on the head when he talked about New Jersey surfers and how we shouldn’t look to the West Coast to inspire our culture, but rather create one that reflects the true spirit of inconsistant, sometimes firing, and usually cold waves. It is important we watch and use what is done on the West Coast and in the surfing meca’s, but we must just use it as a foundation to lay down our own creativity and culture.

The video still is rough around the edges (needs some audio work and fine-tuned cuts), but wanted to get it up and start getting some feedback.

I plan on getting back with Rick sometime in March or April to film some more shaping, glassing, and painting, as well as getting into the water with his team and showing his boards in use.

To see more on Gallery boards, check out http://www.gallerysurfboards.blogspot.com
Stay posted!

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