Puerto….day 2 or 3?

by Preconceived Noceans

A little behind…..

Words (let alone images) cannot express how I feel right now. My camera appears to be toasted. I havent’t slept in about 30 hours (for the second time this trip). And I have just come off riding some of the best waves of my life.

Back to the start. Tuesday I woke up early to get some nice footage of sunrise from our little mountain bungalow in Rincon. My camera (which has been pretty shotty the past few weeks was supposed to get repaired the previous week, and it appeared that it was the first day here. As I headed out to shoot on Tuesday am, my camera was dead and nothing I did seemed to get any response out of it. Cool, I just flew 2 bags full of lenses, grip, and underwater gear down to shoot dudes shredding in crystal clear warm water and my camera won’t fire….let alone turn on…..fucking awesome.

After doing some adventuring with my parents, we found a cool little hotel/ resort thingy more in the downtown area of Rincon. We ran home, did a quick pack up, and switched over to a new….more us hotel. After a quick nap, I found myself amped through dinner and the rest of the night. As I realized I would not fall asleep, I reached for my brother’s little Nikon and went for a walk on the beach, snapping some photos. I hadn’t done long exposures in a while and it was super fun to be back to lining up shots in the dark and playing around.

At about 6, I headed back to the room and got ready to go fishing with the family. Not necessarily my cup of tea, but bonding family time is always good. We spent a few hours of catching a variety of different fish in both the Atlantic and Caribbean. Once we were dropped off on land…I knew I had to go find waves. I just had the itch and knew that surfing was the only cure. I wasn’t expecting much, some 1 ft chop, which was the story to my life on these pilgrimages.

My brother and I looked for a local break called Maria’s. We had passed it in the boat and there were a lot of guys out, and it was looking like it was starting to improve. We ended up at a beach a little south of it, and as I walked through a random resort, I was greeted by one of the best sights I have probably ever seen ever….ever…. Far out on the reef broke (in my mind) perfect rights, untouched by another surfer. The waves weren’t by any means huge, but so incredibly fun that I cannot even begin to relate. I was on Cloud 9…. happier then a pig in shit, or kid in a candy shop…After a few hours I headed in, eyes blood shot from the salty sea and setting sun.

So stoked….so tired….and so not into this crappy ragging Spanish band playing unnecessarily loud at the resort. Just looking forward to tomorrow and catching more perfect waves.

**All images above taking between the hours of 4 and 6 am and contain no digital manipulation