by Preconceived Noceans
Slabs breaking on partially unexposed reef. Rip currents. A place that works where everywhere around it is flat. Its just like the ocean. We got it all. The past few sessions, we have been making a track to a nearby beach that has been offering some really nice, but kinda dangerous waves. There have been a few injuries to boards from large rocks in shallow water that are scattered on the line. But, the spot offers a lot of potential. We have really only surfed it on westward wind direction, and I feel it can work just as good if not better from the East.
Beautiful spot though, pretty free of ice, and with lots of nice neighbors.
Last image: Darrel has found a new home. Getting a last minute barrel on the inside.